This requires at least one assistant and preferably two. The only way to fully drain these torque converters is to have the converter pump the old fluid out of itself. On most cars, though, it isn’t that simple because there is no drain plug in the torque converter. When it’s empty, retighten to the torque figure specified in the factory shop manual.
Then remove the drain plug and let the converter drain into a drain pan. This is done by putting a big breaker bar and socket or very large box end wrench on the pulley nut located at the front end of the crankshaft. It will be necessary, however, to rotate the crankshaft to bring the bolt to the bottom of the converter’s rotation. On these vehicles, there will be an access panel in the torque converter “bell housing” that can be removed to expose the drain bolt, which is normally recessed into the converter. On other cars-usually European brands, but occasionally on domestic makes-there is a drain plug in the torque converter itself, which allows draining it with the engine off. However, as this is occurring, new ATF must simultaneously be added to replace what is being pumped out. On some vehicles, particularly domestic makes, it is impossible to drain the old ATF from the torque converter without operating the engine and turning the converter, that pumps out the contents.
MITSUBISHI GO KART TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH MANUALS
The procedure specified in many factory shop manuals for changing transmission fluid is merely to drain and clean the sump, and then install enough new fluid to replace what was drained.īut, what if you want to replace the old fluid in the torque converter, too? Replacement of transmission fluid ordinarily does not include draining the torque converter.
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